April 28, 2009

experts comment on research into Boots No 7 skin care product, as published in the British Journal of Dermatology

The first scientific study on a cosmetic product, Boots No 7 ‘Protect and Perfect’ cream, has been carried out by researchers at the University of Manchester. They found that the cream did give some moderate improvement in a small sample of people between the ages of 45 and 80.

Dr Richard Weller, Senior Lecturer in Dermatology, University of Edinburgh, said:

“This is, as far as I am aware, the first properly conducted placebo controlled, double blind trial of an over the counter cosmetic product. Boots are to be congratulated for doing this. In their press release they claim that they would have published the results whether positive or negative. This too is to be praised.

“Protect and Perfect reduced wrinkles after 12 months, but not other features of aging I am not sure from the paper by how much it improves wrinkles. I don’t imagine it will be as effective as topical retinoids (which can only be obtained from a doctor).

“The ingredients in P and P are available to other cosmetic companies, and many of them are used in other brands of cosmetics. It would thus not surprise me if other cosmetics showed similar effects. It is up to rival cosmetic companies to show this though.

“Most importantly- I think this will raise the bar for what we should expect from the cosmetic companies in showing that their products work.”

Some more background from Dr Weller:- “The initial Griffiths study of Boots ‘Protect and Perfect’ (Watson et al, BJD 2008) used an artificial measure of the effectiveness of the product. His group applied ‘P and P’ to the skin for 12 days and then took biopsies of the skin and looked for changes in the skin structure suggestive of wrinkle reduction. What this study showed was that P and P was more effective than the control substance, but not as effective as a topical retinoid, which is a drug and only available from a doctor. “This earlier study while suggesting that P and P might reduce signs of skin ageing was not proof of real visible benefit in man (or woman!). The only way of doing that is to carry out a proper clinical trial in which the product and a control are applied to subjects with skin aging and the actual effect of the product on signs of aging then compared with the control. The current trial set out to do this. “The clinical trial appears to have been well conducted. 60 subjects with skin aging were divided into two groups. Half were treated with ‘P and P’ and the other with a ‘vehicle control’. This was the base formulation of ‘P and P’, but without the claimed ‘anti-ageing’ ingredients. Importantly, both active and control treatments were identically packaged and presented, and neither investigator, nor subject knew which was which. Subjects were scored for wrinkling, colour changes of aging skin, overall aging, and skin roughness. “After 6 months treatment, 43% of the subjects using the active ‘P and P’ product had a reduction in wrinkles, compared to 22% of the subjects using the vehicle control. The paper doesn’t say how big was the improvement in wrinkles. There was no difference in skin colour or texture between active and control treated subjects. After the initial 6 months of active/control treatment, all volunteers were put on the active ‘P and P’. After a further 6 months, 70% of the subjects who had been treated for a total of 12months with ‘P and P’ had a reduction in wrinkles. Although nobody was treated from 12 months with the vehicle control alone, projections from the improvement in wrinkles up to the 6 month mark suggest that 33% of these control treated subjects would have improved. The difference between active and control treated subjects was significant at 12 months, and not due just to chance.”

Dr Nick Lowe, Consultant Dermatologist, Cranley Clinic, and Clinical Professor of Dermatology at UCLA School of Medicine, said:

“The previous rapid study reported from this group measured Fibrillin a substance that predicts the formulation of collagen. More collagen should result in skin rejuventation. This latest longer study over 6 months appears to confirm skin rejuvenation as measured by dermatology examination.

“From a wider skincare platform perspective this result is important in giving credence to the rapid results test which is the methodology used by many of the reputable skincare brands and their ingredients available in the market. However for some, including many dermatologist backed brands, the addition of clinical based data ensures all claims are fully measurable.”

Nina Goad, Communications Manager, British Association of Dermatologists, said:

“The study shows that 43 percent of people using the product for six months were found to have some extra improvement in their wrinkles compared to 22 percent of people using a basic moisturiser – so an additional 21 percent of people using this product report an improvement compared to using a placebo. In other words approximately one in five people using the cream will get something extra for their money over plain moisturisers. It is an interesting step forward in research although the long term benefits are unknown. The main preventable causes of skin ageing are sun exposure and smoking, so if you’re worried about wrinkles, limiting these factors is sensible.”

See also details of our briefing which launched this research.